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Yesterday morning Sept. 1st, I played hooky from work, but still got up early instead of sleeping in! Crazy right? My intention was to get a few Temple photos, as the sunrise looked promising. Maybe I'd get something I liked. What I got was a fantastic sunrise and some photos I really, really liked.
I quickly edited one photo later in the day, then posted it on our neighborhood residents' page before going to a football game. Here it is:
I received a heartwarming response, overwhelmingly positive and gratifying. One contrary comment stated, "Photoshop, sun comes up on East", This didn't bug me much, since the photo captured my east-facing view. However, the intimation that I used Photoshop to fake the composition, or other chicanery, did bug me. Admittedly, I have done that once or twice, but I own it when I do. Like here:
Oquirrh Mountain Temple Oct 2009
and here:
It is actually a pain in the rear, because you have to digitally cut-out the outline of the building. Not making it look cruddy, fake, etc... is REALLY hard! These two photos literally took HOURS of work in Photoshop to do it, and still look a bit fake (besides the juxtapositions not found in nature).
I created digital art, not photo journalism. If I painted these images, would people complain that they were fake? So, what does it matter?
There are huge online discussions that dissect the use of editing-in elements vs. fixing exposure or color balance. This is a fun article. And there are multitudinous others, should you care to spend time reviewing them. Feel free, just don't bug me about it.
Presumably, the comment author erroneously thought the photo contained a west-facing view of the Oquirrh Mountain Temple, the drama of the sky was digitally created, or elements were combined from more than one natural perspective, commonly referred to as "Photoshopped". Reality is much worse or interesting, depending where you stand on the issue.
For the purpose of this blog post, I am discussing a single photo without digitally added elements (not found in the original photo). I enhanced what was captured by the camera's sensor, to more closely resemble what I saw with my eyes. (Plus, a little artistic emphasis for the sake of drama.) This process is called HDR or High Dynamic Range. I use it often with temples and night scenes, especially when lighting dynamics are difficult to capture in a single file. A digital SLR's sensor cannot capture the full range of a scene, as the eye sees it.
The challenge for photographers, camera companies and photography consumers is that the human eye interprets light much differently than film or digital sensors. The eye can simultaneously see detail in dark and brightly lit areas. This is impossible for a camera. In order to capture the scene I saw, I took five different exposures with different shutter speeds at the same aperture or f-stop. This is called bracketing in photographer terms. Below are the five original exposures from darkest to lightest, each "one stop" different. This means the amount of light allowed into the camera doubles from one exposure to the next. The first -2, second -1, third metered by the camera, fourth +1, and fifth +2.
This one is 2 stops underexposed, retaining detail in the backlit clouds, though pushing the limit a little. Also, I wish to note here that I shoot in RAW format which writes information to the memory card, as it comes off the sensor, with minimal processing by the camera. This allows me the greatest latitude to recover highlights and change the white balance (with significantly of larger files). If you want to know more, click here.
This photo is 1 stop underexposed, starting to loose detail in the clouds, but get more in the foreground.
Exposure as the camera metered it, as a balance of highlights vs. dark detail. If you just pulled out your camera and took a picture, this is likely what you would get.
+1 stop, getting more shadow and foreground, but the sky is blown in several areas.
+2 the sky is getting a lot brighter and multiple areas have gone completely white meaning that there is no detail at all. These areas are what photographers call "blown out". The foreground is starting to get more acceptable.
Now I take these five exposures and combine them in a program called Photomatix, which is my favorite for HDR processing. Though Photoshop has an adequate algorithm and software, I prefer Photomatix. After processing I get this:
This is getting closer to what I saw, those pesky clouds have blown out a little bit, but I do have better overall exposure, and some of the added drama I desire. I import this large file which is nearly 100MB into Photoshop to finish cleaning it up; adjusting exposure, straightening (yes, it is a little crooked, darn hands) and correcting perspective. After I am done with my "Photoshopping", here is my finished product:
I guess you could call this "Photoshopped" compared to the one just above. But the differences are slight, compared to the differences between the source images and what came out of Photomatix.
The bottom line, for me, is that what the eye sees and what the camera can capture in a single exposure are vastly different. Unless you are passing your work off as journalistic or an exact rendering of the scene (exactly as captured in camera), then what does it matter if you manipulate things? I am creating art. The focal length of the lens and the aperture affect how a scene is presented, shutter speed can capture a split second or minutes of activity in one exposure. I/we as photographers are manipulating the scene before we even press the shutter button with our choice of equipment, and how we use it to gather data. If I then refine and shape the data a little more in the computer before posting it on Facebook or my website does that make it fake? Or less valuable? The scene is digitally altered from the moment I capture it.
I have had a long fascination with fire, not in a "Set random things on fire!" kind of way, but in a "What an amazing tool and force, that scares me and draws me in close when it is harnessed." kind of way. It is also the stuff of my nightmares. If there is any choice in the matter I would choose to NOT die in a fire, or even live after a serious burn. It just messes with my head.
Maybe that is why I am drawn to hot air balloons. It is all about the fire, contained, forceful and making something beautiful. I just can't get enough of them. Love seeing them in the sky, watching them inflate (I have been reliably informed by a certified "Ballunatic" that it is inflating not "Blowing them up." I guess I can see the reason for that.) watching them gracefully maneuver on the wind. Actually hoping to ride in one over Canyonlands NP for a birthday sometime soon.
I love the photos I make with them too. I will go a long way off my path to look at one. This slideshow is from a local festival that is a regular on our calendar. I have shot it several times, but never got to go to the glow in at night, where they inflate the balloons, and occasionally run the burner to illuminate them. It was a really REALLY cool experience.
My favorite photo is this one:
20s exposure at f14 @ 10mm, most of that time waiting for him to make the burn. I love the movement in the balloon envelope and the fire shooting out the back toward his hand as well as out the front. Just cool!
Anyway, if you ever get to go to a balloon festival, especially if they have a glow-in, definitely go! For the glow-in take a tripod and cable release and a sense of adventure!
I will be the first person to admit that if you tell me one lens is sharper than another that I already have and hand it to me you will likely have to pry it from my cold dead hand. That said, I am enough of a realist to understand that I am not best served by ultimate sharpness when other considerations are factored into the equation.
One very important factor for me is size and weight. The heavier the camera/lens combination the less likely I am to carry it around all the time. My casual/street photography is usually done while commuting, hopping off the train and walking from one stop to the next. For these instances a small, light manual focus prime is my go to lens. In the instance of the photos I took in this post, it was my Pentax SMC 28mm f3.5 lens.
It was given to me by my father-in-law when I got my Pentax K200-D more than 8 years ago. It is not super fast aperture wise, but the colors are excellent, CA hard to provoke, and a joy to use due to how it feels in your hand and on your camera. All metal, perfectly weighted focus ring. It just looks good and handles good, is relatively small and lightweight. Oh and it is pretty darn sharp too. It may not outresolve my DA 16-85 but It is good enough and is much smaller!
I have a fair number of these vintage lenses and while they have their quirks they are unique and deliver just a slightly different look that makes me want to use them more!
These three shots were all stopped down to the f5.6-f11 range where I usually shoot it. In fairly strong morning light. They are all sharp enough for me.
Sometimes a photo is made or broken by the choices of the photographer. If you are trying to take a extreme macro with a cell phone, you likely will not get the results you are looking for. If you are using aDSLR with a dedicated Macro Lens or some other rig like a reversed 50mm maybe you can get the results you want... if you know what you are doing.
Other times it is not just the equipment but the how you choose to use it. Give two photographers the same camera and lens combination at the same place and same time, give them 30 minutes and you will likely get very different images.
Sometimes it is the choice you make once you have the image captured and you are working on it in your digital darkroom. (i.e. Photoshop, or whatever software you use.) Case in point, I sometimes "See" or pre-visualize the final shot when I am taking it, other times I "Discover" the final image when I am massaging it on the computer. This image was more of a "Can I use this lens in this way, or is it not capable of doing this job." moment. I was working the spring flowers on Temple Square in Salt Lake City, UT and using one of my fun older lenses. A Pentax SMC 200mm f2.5 lens from the later 70's/early 80's. Manual focus, manual metering etc... at the closest focus distance the lens can achieve. I got an acceptable shot and then mounted my 100mm macro and went for the easier route.
When it came time to work with the image in post, I found it pleasing but not a "wow" image to my personal sensitivities. I found myself pondering what it would look like in monochrome. Now... B&W is tricky, there are multiple ways to convert it, and each has pluses and minuses. This was my final result, to me... it was a wow. The texture and the tonality work for me.
Poppy Color & Monochrome
Poppy Color & Monochrome
I'm trying a new blog space. I was filling up my google account alarmingly and I needed to find another place. So... I have decided to try the blogging function at my Zenfolio website.
Here are some recent shots from last Friday. I have been so busy that I haven't had the opportunity to take many photos and I was determined to stop by the temple close to my home on my way to work. The sun was just up, the blossoms were still on, sigh it was heaven!
I swear I leveled this thing, but it doesn't look straight here... Hmmm..... This was two images stitched together, each image was 4 shot brackets blended in Photomatix (HDR software) Just to up the contrast and overall drama.
I like the imagery of the open gate leading to the temple, Welcoming all who are ready to worship herein.
This was also a panorama stitch from multiple HDR images. I REALLY LIKE this one!
Hope this works!